Staff Favorites<\/a>. Each week, we offer our opinions on the best that Colorado has to offer for dining, shopping, entertainment, outdoor activities and more. (We\u2019ll also let you in on some hidden gems.<\/em><\/p>\n
\nThe seventh and final move of my childhood was to the Texas Panhandle. My divorced dad had arrived a couple of months before in an oil-company transfer, and he couldn’t wait to show me a few of his favorite local gems: Lake Meredith, the red clay hills along the Canadian River, Sutphens BBQ restaurant and Lorene’s Mexican Kitchen — specifically for the chile rellenos.<\/p>\n
He was trying to get me to think this move was a good thing.<\/p>\n
At the age of 14, I had never had a chile relleno before, so I had nothing to compare them to. After eating this local treasure, I thought all chile rellenos had a wonderful ground beef filling in a long chile with a crispy coating served on top of a yellow queso.<\/p>\n
But after graduating high school, I began ordering chile rellenos in restaurants in other cities and was disappointed. Cheese on the inside, a soft batter, covered in a chile sauce. None were like Lorene’s.<\/p>\n
I soon realized Lorene’s relleno was the outlier. Yet to me, any chile relleno is better than any other Tex-Mex food as long as I can at least taste the chile beneath all the batter and cheese. And most of the time, what I was being served was a traditional relleno experience.<\/p>\n
Since then, I’ve tried different versions, including one with raisins and pecans in it — a newfangled version of an old-fashioned picadillo variety. I have had the roasted poblano stuffed with cheese and one stuffed with chicken, both with no batter coating. Sometimes, the relleno is wrapped in either a tortilla or egg roll wrapper and fried. Sometimes I’ll order crispy, and it will come smothered, kinda softening the outer shell. I’ve even suggested that The Denver Post have a contest to find the best relleno. So far, my local favorite — a poblano stuffed with Oaxaca cheese — is from Machete Tequilas + Tacos, at 3570 E. Colfax Ave.<\/p>\n
But Lorene’s relleno remains the one to beat. There was no visit home to Texas that didn’t involve at least one stop there near the circle drive on the north side of Borger, Texas. You would always run into someone you knew from the surrounding towns of Fritch or Stinnett.<\/p>\n
In Colorado, a friend once drove me to a restaurant in Loveland to try its rellenos. They were great, and it was definitely worth the drive, but they were not the same. Did anybody make them like Lorene? Is it a regional difference? There was only one person to ask: Lorene Richardson.<\/p>\n
Turns out Lorene retired at the age of 92; she will be 97 in February. Her children carried on the torch and now serve their mom’s favorite recipes to the community at Village Kids restaurant in Borger. Daughter Shelia Melton said her mom is still going strong.<\/p>\n
Lorene’s opened in the 1960s. “My pop and his brother-in-law came up with the recipes,” Melton said. For the relleno, her dad came up with the secret ingredient for the batter. And I mean secret<\/em>. The family owners mix the dry ingredients, and the staff has only to add the wet ingredients. They use Anaheim peppers, but have used Hatch peppers as well.<\/p>\nMelton said an employee once worked hard to try to figure out the recipe.<\/p>\n
“She thought she had it down. She took it to a local restaurant here,” Shelia said, laughing. “She didn’t have it,” she scoffed.<\/p>\n
Well, I don’t have it down either. But in my efforts, I came up with my second favorite version. And hopefully, with more practice, they will be as pretty as Lorene’s. But they will never be the same.<\/p>\n